Day 12

I leave my newly found friends-- oh, and Stacy, I hope we can get together again toward the tail end of this trip--in pursuit of a cup-a-Joe. Just across the train tracks at the Whistle Stop, providence sees fit to find me yet again. There an amicably inclined barista named Valyn empathizes with my pitiably decaffeinated state and offers to make me a coffee free of charge. 'Woohoo!' I've got a feeling it's gonna be a wonderful day.

I set a pretty decent pace for most of the morning. From time-to-time, people who've talked with me or have seen me consecutive days wave and honk as they pass. Briefly resting at Drano Lake, I read about the elaborate 'fume' (I didn't know what it was either.) that once carried enormous amounts of timber almost effortlessly throughout the region. A little ways further and there's a bit of excitement to be had as I attempt to get through the tunnels. I wait until it looks like no cars are coming, and then make a b-line for the other end. Invariably, however, at least one narrow miss takes place per tunnel, and I gather my nerves again after each success.

As the sunlight begins to wane, my options for camp seem scarce. There aren't many places to pitch a tent once you're passed Bingen. But when I'm just beginning to feel that my luck's run out, and the portentous cliff walls on both sides seem to be hailing an inclement end, a little path emerges just to the right after mile marker after 72. I climb up the embankment and then over a little rocky crag to find a perfect spot with a wide panoramic view of the gorge below. I turn in around 19:30, after having viewed one of the most splendid sunsets of this year.